@csweeper my normal pi is model b v1.2

@Rumblebelly5

This one looks even better.

@CaelThunderwing Did you find any good 1:1 settings from a GB game to GBC? I haven't, even in the RetroArch config options. Eg. the color from Pokemon Blue does not match what it would be if I put it into an actual GBC (where Charmander would be red and Bulbasaur be green). I tried changing the file format to GBC with no avail.

After a bit of playing around I managed to get the Pi Zero working - By updating all the packages and emulation station, it all boots up fine now. Problem solved.

Thanks

Please do not post a support request without first reading and following the advice in https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/3/read-this-first (links off to how to do it). There is also a help link when writing a post (compose ?) at the top right of the edit box.

code sections use three backticks above and below the code block ```

Looking good!

Ah, guess I am buying one after all. Thanks anyway, though.

I'm assuming missing bios file

Equipment11bolded text
Alright i got it working. So it was the image file that was corrupt. I tried 2 more sd cards and it wudnt work so i redownloaded the inage file on my phone. Then transferred it to my computer and extracted it and tried again. Its now working. Thanks a bunch man

@edmaul69 yes please, pictures would be nice, thank you.

@obsidianspider

I'm from the UK. And It's cost me somewhere in the region of about £40-£50 due to the scarcisty of Powerboost 1000 over here.

My soldering Iron was temp regulated. It served me well.

Went out and got a new soldering iron and ordered a new powerboost and Pi Zero.

I'm still confident I can break them out.

Found a nice little walkthrough

end a piece of #20 to #24 copper wire so it just fits around the LED or resistor, then heat that with the tip of your soldering iron.

The wire will carry heat to the pads on both ends of the component, melting both at the same time. Then you can slide the component off the pads. It's a lot faster and easier than trying to lever a component off with only one side free.

Clean any excess solder off the pads with solder wick, then re-tin before adding the jumper.

30 gauge wire works well for the jumpers. It can carry more than enough current for an LED, and is flexible enough that you won't risk pulling the pad off the PCB.

Bend about 1mm of the wire back on itself and press the wires together with pliers/tweezers to make a tight U, dip it in flux, then melt a bead of solder into the U. The capillary action between the wires will hold more solder than a straight run of wire, and the paired wires will act like a small pad. Place the tinned U on the pad, heat it with your iron, and you should get a good joint.

I've got the broken powerboost I'm gonna practice on.

Let's hope

@jsawhite cheer buddy :) that was part of my concern. Although relatively easy to build like you say JFET is an issue also the space it takes up. The premade PCB would be ideal but I'll just have to wait and see

@obsidianspider I would follow this tutorial. It is basically the same thing that I did. The screens mother board is just a tad bit different looking but the idea is the same. I took off the converter chip and wired up ground and power directly to the ground and input to the mother board..... If that makes sense??? If this does not help Ill send you a picture of how its wired up. =]

this might be relevent: https://github.com/tasanakorn/rpi-fbcp/issues/5

(rpi 0 is rpi 1 to all intents and purposes)

Popeye Pie Nr °2 Advanced Design Dual view (HDMI, SDTV) I2S Soundmodul Integrated 4 port USB Hub Powersaving by switchable videosignal via software Operates with 5V Wifi and BT with dongel Raspberry Pi Zero (not a W) build

--- is finished ;)

.... more to come ;)

@suprjami Yeah that was the idea. Something small that you could just do on a lunch break or if you were bored at a friends house. The controller as small as it is, isn't really that bad on your hands surprisingly. I played for about an hour and it didn't seem to be a big deal. But yeah thanks for the compliment =].

@suprjami thanks. yeah, since there's no stipulation of overclocks in the compatibility list, i think they really need a separate column for pi zero.

Just in case anyone is reading this thread I figure I should say that I was able to mount the RP mSD card in Ubuntu and copy roms over manually. Now to figure out how to get the scraped data over as well.